Pyramidspel albanien dating WarPsychogeography. In AprilI spent two extremely wet days in Tirana, Albania. Because beneath the noise, the youth and colour of modern Tirana, lie the buried remains of another place altogether: An abandoned bunker lurks at the edge of Lake Ohrid near the Albania-Macedonia border.
A maelstrom of jagged metal lay before us, a thousand engines throbbing as car horns screamed at one another through dense clouds of exhaust smoke. A heavy rain fell across the highway, so that the moving metal parts of this infernal puzzle glistened almost organic beneath these Pyramidspel albanien dating skies.
Up ahead, in the centre of the main road into Pyramidspel albanien dating, a vast Albanian flag ripped and crackled in the storm: Nothing quite prepared me for the of Albanian traffic.
Looking at that road, it was hard to imagine how anyone was getting out of here before sundown. But Pyramidspel albanien dating the rush-hour knot teased itself out, each car pushing, scraping honking its way to freedom.
Patterned concrete decorates communist-era housing blocks on the road into Tirana.
After three weeks backpacking around the countries that once made up YugoslaviaAlbania, at first glance, looked like more of the same.
The border crossing from Montenegro was smooth and scenic: The view was so distracting that I hardly noticed the border formalities and then we were in, the bus weaving its way along the side of a river gorge on roads that appeared far too narrow, too precarious, to support this kind of traffic.
Cars double parked on every pavement, and men stood in the road amongst a chaos of traffic smoking cigarettes and talking. On one corner, a vendor was selling live chickens from a stack of wire crates piled up in the dirt.
The Lana River flows through the centre of Tirana, Albania. On roads signs and adverts, the logical, phonetic symbols of the South Slavic languages were switched for what looked to me, like a jumble of long indecipherable characters, studded with umlauts and with Qs places that made no sense at all.
The second thing was the litter. Between the towns, fields
Pyramidspel albanien dating scattered with the drifting ghosts of old plastic bags; with messy mountains of bottles and cartons and tins. On the riverbanks, bleached-white refuse hung from trees like wallpaper, marking the high tide level.
Pyramidspel albanien dating the Pyramidspel albanien dating I watched a goatherd
Pyramidspel albanien dating his animals along
Pyramidspel albanien dating bank, Pyramidspel albanien dating the goats all stopped to Pyramidspel albanien dating at the low-hanging grey-white foliage of plastic and nappies.
One of the many thousands of bunkers built by communist Albania, then
Pyramidspel albanien dating abandoned. Albania has a lot of bunkers. They pop up like mushrooms out of farmland, mountain plains and all along the coast; they rise in bumps and domes from the grass of city parks. Under the leadership of the increasingly paranoid Enver Hoxha, Communist Albania built more thanbunkers — an average of 5.
The idea was that if the country were invaded, the population itself could be weaponised… everybody taking a rifle and retreating to their reinforced firing position. Even within the socialist
Pyramidspel albanien dating it was viewed a pariah state, and these many thousands of bunkers were constructed to ensure
Pyramidspel albanien dating it stayed that way.
The bunkers Pyramidspel albanien dating Communist were never used for their intended purpose; while the cost of this mad programme of bunkerisation is one of the main reasons for the poor social housing Pyramidspel albanien dating poorer roads on display today. Some
Pyramidspel albanien dating the bunkers have since been Pyramidspel albanien dating, others repurposed as storage space, livestock pens or even shops.
Some of them have people living in, while just a few, closer to the border, proved useful during the Balkan wars of the s. A great many of them, however, have simply been left abandoned. A lonely bunker emerges from the surface of a park in central Tirana. I began Pyramidspel albanien dating tune Pyramidspel albanien dating out in the end, so that it just became part of the fabric of the place.
This Pyramidspel albanien dating just what Albania sounded like, for me. Wet raincoats hung down the length of the entry corridor, permeating the wood-panelled stillness of the old building with a constant drip drip drip.
This former state building in Tirana, Albania, was repurposed as a Pyramidspel albanien dating to
Pyramidspel albanien dating those whose lives
Pyramidspel albanien dating displaced during the communist years. By the time we hit the streets, I found Tirana immediately confusing. Tower blocks, painted pastel hues of purple and green, were fronted in intricate patterns of concrete latticework. Unfinished skyscrapers in twisting, dizzying shapes rose up above bursts of waxy vegetation.
Postmodernist churches popped and bulged from marble plazas, in between relics of Ottoman-era brickwork. The spoken language, meanwhile, was like no European tongue I had ever heard. We passed a monument, an undulating contortion of grotesque body parts misassembled into a lumbering headless giant; a memorial to victims of Communist Albania.
From time to time, the constant rain grew heavier. On the ceiling an antique fan rattled noisily around, and tropical-looking plants sat potted in a window box. The waiter spoke no English. Tirana made absolutely no to me. On that first day of exploring, Tirana was all texture with no core.
But the texture itself was compelling. For three weeks in former Yugoslavia, Pyramidspel albanien dating had been living on a diet of grilled meat, bread and beer. Here though, I was finding colourful beans and spices, stews and soups, and roasted vegetables stuffed with other vegetables.
It was more than anything I could have imagined, a city where the relics of Communist Albania were almost lost in a jungle of entirely unpredictable sensations. Albania was a world apart from all its neighbours, to the extent that it felt thoroughly out of place in this corner of the Balkans. Ask an Albanian though, and they might just tell you Pyramidspel albanien dating theirs is in fact the native culture of the Balkans.
Better to think of it this way: There are strong theories against this Illyrian hypothesis, Pyramidspel albanien dating. The Pyramidspel albanien dating must have Pyramidspel albanien dating irresistible for a nation recovering from centuries of often-brutal subjugation.
Later, it would also add fire to the conflict with Serbia the Kosovo War, with Albanian nationalists convinced that their people had owned these lands since long before the Slavs ever arrived into this part Pyramidspel albanien dating Europe. The caption on this film poster curiously, written in Russian reads: The Illyria story proved useful for Communist Albania as well. During Pyramidspel albanien dating years, the theory was taught as unequivocal fact by Albanian schools and universities; there are even reports of new parents being persuaded to
Pyramidspel albanien dating ancient Illyrian names for their babies.
In Communist Albania, Hoxha encouraged his citizens to Pyramidspel albanien dating themselves the oldest race in Europe. Before I ever went to Tirana, I could name
Pyramidspel albanien dating one landmark in the city: The Pyramid
Pyramidspel albanien dating Tirana, Albania: The pyramid was originally intended as a museum dedicated to Enver Hoxha: Albanian communism ended in however, and after that there was little demand for a museum celebrating the life of a former dictator.
Meanwhile, as a tangible symbol for the excesses of Communist Albania, the pyramid would become a target for vandalism and looting. The clean white marble that once coated its flanks was stripped away, exposing the concrete underneath: When we arrived at the plaza, a group of local kids were climbing up the wet sides of the former museum.
But then the rain intensified, and the children half-climbed, half-slid their way back down, got on their bikes, and left. At a gap in the sheetmetal wall, I peered into the space There have been local talks for years about demolishing the structure, and making room for Pyramidspel albanien dating parliamentary buildings.
But the Pyramid of Tirana, today, feels like a fitting memorial in its own right. Not a museum anymore, but a mausoleum: The meet-up point was The Albanians: In the picture, Pyramidspel albanien dating peasants and partisans stand clutching rifles beneath Pyramidspel albanien dating national flag… and on either side they fade into history, uniforms growing more antiquated down the line as rifles are replaced for swords and bows and arrows.
A symbol of Albanian independence, charted as far back as Illyria. The heavy rain had scared off all the tourists. We had the guide to that day, so I was able to draw him into the Pyramidspel albanien dating of deep historical discussions that
Pyramidspel albanien dating thrive on, but most other travellers might find antisocial.
We talked in the rain for hours, until it got too bad and then we visited the National Gallery of Arts. There was an exhibition inside, of film posters dating largely from the s and 70s. The pop-art colours,
Pyramidspel albanien dating clean figures, smiling faces and national costumes, Pyramidspel albanien dating them virtually indistinguishable from political propaganda posters.
Suddenly there was a commotion near the entrance, and people around us were turning to watch a new group of visitors arrive. A wide and quiet street, set with austere modern buildings at regular intervals.
Hardly anything moved here: It is the key to making any sense of this city. The boulevard was always intended as a totalitarian gesture. Back then, it was called the Viale del Impero: Avenue of the Empire.
We passed the Presidential Office, originally built to serve as the Soviet Embassy here in Albania but repurposed after the two nations
Pyramidspel albanien dating albanien dating off diplomatic relations in the Soviets, according to Hoxha, had grown too liberal. We passed the more recent Palace of Congresses too: Back then, it was the meeting venue for the Albanian Labour Party. Now its 2,capacity
Pyramidspel albanien dating is used used for festivals and exhibitions.
Palace of Congresses At the south end of the boulevard, the empty road spilled into an Pyramidspel albanien dating square where a row of plain and pompous blocks rose up in perfect symmetry: As I stood on the tarmac in the rain a single car reached the end Pyramidspel albanien dating the boulevard, circled the former parade ground, turned, then drove back the way it had come.
There must have been another Pyramidspel albanien dating to the university, I pondered.
A pedestrian route into the back of the campus, most likely lined in quirky coffee shops. This, the official Pyramidspel albanien dating, appeared to have faded from popular use just like the fading shadows of the regime it once accommodated.